Rust Prevention   

                                       

 


This Boss 302 originally came from New Orleans. Given its close proximity to a major
source of salt, and the rainy, humid South, it has its fair share of rust. The most
effective way to fight existing rust and to prevent future rust in the future is to
make sure that every last square inch of the car body and mating parts has a full
coat of rust eliminating primer and paint. When Ford originally built these cars,
many hidden body areas did not get painted and thus remained bare metal. Outside of
dipping the body in a bath of epoxy or similar primer, Iíve found that the most
effective way to deliver rust eliminating coatings to all of the hard-to-reach nooks,
crannies and seams on the carís body and its mating parts is with this tool and the
accompanying materials:

The tool is primarily for those involved in rust repair of large body sections such
as doorpillars, floorpans, quarter panels, fender aprons, truck floors/sides, full
cowl sections, etc. It is best suited for applying primer and sealer after the HEAVY
sheetmetal repair work is complete. Itís the next best thing to having the body fully
dipped in a bath of primer, and nothing seals a body panel better than a full coat
of sealer/primer/paint.

Basically, itís an undercoating gun that comes with several different tips and
extensions that pretty much allow you to get primer and paint into every nook,
cranny and body seam (all of them) on your car. The tool DOES NOT finely atomize
paint and primer like a standard paint gun but rather blows it out in very small
droplets, hence the advantage. Finely atomized paint wonít seep into all those hard
to get places. I guess itís kind of like taking a garden hose thatís blowing out
primer and washing the complete car body with it. It can be messy and there is some
run-off and seepage, but the tool and primer has proven to be "highly effective".

The tool and materials are available from the Eastwood Company and SPI.

For serious rust clean-up and repair, you'll also want a good media blaster.
The pressurized type pictured below will strip a complete fender in about 2 minutes.


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                                                             Last modified: January 22, 2011